Medically Reviewed: Rachel Nazarian, MD, FAAD Board-Certified Dermatologist
You probably already know about how Vitamin C is good for your immune system but might have some questions about its growing popularity as a skincare ingredient in products like brightening serums, anti-aging creams, and more.
Adding a new step to your skincare routine can get overwhelming with all the options out there, especially if you’re already struggling with sensitive or acne-prone skin. If you’re curious to learn more about what Vitamin C can do, whether Vitamin C is a good choice if you have acne, and when to use a Vitamin C serum — read on for what you need to know about incorporating a Vitamin C serum into your acne-prone skincare routine.
What is Vitamin C & why is it a popular skincare ingredient?
Vitamin C (often known as ascorbic acid) is an antioxidant that supports your body's healing process and plays a crucial role in forming blood vessels, cartilage, muscle, and collagen when taken orally in your diet. Since we lose collagen as we age, Vitamin C can be a powerful ally in the fight against wrinkles, fine lines, and signs of aging. It also helps neutralize free radicals—harmful molecules generated by sun exposure, tobacco smoke, and other sources—that can damage skin cells and lead to premature aging.
Dr. Rachel Nazarian, a board-certified dermatologist and Proactiv partner, highlights that "Vitamin C is known for its effects on skin tone and radiance and increases your skin's protection from environmental stressors".
But will Vitamin C treat acne?
Vitamin C shouldn’t be considered an acne treatment or prevention tactic. However, it can provide a boost to your skin’s essential functions, and defend against some of the annoying side effects of acne, like hyperpigmentation and or scarring. Antioxidants like Vitamin C can also combat environmental damage, like damage from the sun and wrinkling. Plus, Vitamin C may be particularly beneficial for acne-prone skin due to its anti-inflammatory & free-radical-controlling properties, according to Harvard Health Publishing, but more studies are needed to understand its potential roles and benefits.
Unfortunately, properly dealing with breakouts isn't always as simple as applying a treatment and waiting a few days for it to clear up. Sometimes, underlying factors that cause acne can be worsened by lifestyle habits or overall health. Taking a comprehensive approach to skincare includes ensuring you're getting the right ingredients both in your diet and in your skincare regimen.
So How does using Vitamin C treat acne?
While Vitamin C can’t actively treat breakouts, regular use of a Vitamin C serum can help support other challenges that come along with acne & acne-prone skin. Check out some of the potential benefits: defend.
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Helps reduce inflammation
Vitamin C’s antioxidant properties help neutralize free radicals and combat inflammation for a soothing effect. Redness in acne is generally a sign of inflammation, so Vitamin C can be especially helpful in evening out your complexion if you experience inflammatory acne and the accompanying redness and irritation.
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Promotes healing
Collagen can be found throughout your bones, muscles, and skin. It’s a vital protein in your body’s healing process, especially for your skin, where it promotes elasticity and fends off the telltale signs of aging. By encouraging collagen synthesis, and protecting collagen against breakdown, Vitamin C can help restore your skin’s appearance post-acne, even helping to reduce the appearance of lifestyle acne scars and spots (also known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, or PIH.).
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Evens skin tone
Hyperpigmentation, which includes sunspots, age spots, and melasma, is a condition where your skin overproduces melanin in specific areas, leading to discoloration. Vitamin C can help inhibit melanin production, which can help fade & prevent hyperpigmentation, whether it's caused by acne or other factors!
When should Vitamin C be used during a skincare routine?
For maximum benefits, Vitamin C serum should be used once daily in the morning after you cleanse the skin but before you apply your treatments or a moisturizer. Don’t forget to wear a daily broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 too!
A quick cheat sheet: Cleanser > Toner > Vitamin C Serum > Moisturizer > SPF
Note: If your morning skincare routine includes a strong treatment like retinol or a , chemical exfoliant, consider switching things up, like using your Vitamin C in the morning and your retinol or exfoliant at night. Using your targeted products during different times of the day can help avoid irritation. Don’t forget to check with a doctor, such as a dermatologist, when adding new ingredients to your skincare routine.
An example acne skincare routine with Vitamin C
Here’s an example of how to adapt your existing acne skincare routine (we’re going to use our original best-seller Proactiv Solution) to include a Vitamin C product like our new Post Blemish 10% Vitamin C Serum, which is formulated specifically for acne-prone skin. "It's non-comedogenic, so it's not going to cause acne" says Dr. Nazarian. "Users are going to find that they get a beautiful post-blemish complexion without the risk of increasing your acne."
- Cleanse: Start with Step 1, the Renewing Cleanser to wash away dirt, oil, & debris to allow the rest of your skincare to penetrate your skin better.
- Tone: Step 2, the Revitalizing Toner, to help balance & refresh your skin so that the serum can absorb better.
- Apply Serum: Pat 4-5 drops of Post Blemish 10% Vitamin C Serum around your whole face, avoiding your eyes.
- Moisturize: After the serum absorbs, you can apply Step 3, the Repairing Treatment, to treat your acne & moisturize your skin barrier.
- Apply SPF: Finish your routine off with a non-comedogenic SPF, like Proactiv Clear Skin SPF 30, to keep your skin protected.
